The Perfect Turkey
& Baked Country Ham

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             FOOD FUNNY
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Here's and Oldie Goldie from Rosemary Zwick:

I was taking a ground school class for private pilots. During the
session on weather, the instructor wanted to discuss the concept of
sublimation, the act of going from a gas to a solid skipping the
intermediate liquid stage. He gave as an example water vapor in the air
condensing on a windshield to form ice. Wanting to see if the class had
understood the concept, the instructor asked if anyone could provide an
example of something that went straight from a solid to a gas. He was
expecting "dry ice'' as the answer. One of the students blurted out, "Burritos."

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             TODAY'S RECIPE
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Many challenges stand between the home cook and the perfect turkey: the
breast meat should be moist and tender without being over cooked; the
thigh meat should thoroughly cooked to a temperature about 10 degrees
higher than the breast meat; and the skin should be crisp and well
browned all over. My three-step procedure requires more time and labor
than most other methods, but if you invest the extra effort you will
never be disappointed by a holiday turkey again.

The Perfect Turkey

Step 1 - Brining

Soaking the turkey in a salt and water mixture (brine) before cooking
adds moisture and seasoning to the meat - a large turkey can absorb up
to a pound of additional water during the process. Use a large stockpot
or a clean bucket large enough to hold the turkey. If you don't have a
container large enough, consider using an insulated cooler or an
immaculately clean trash can lined with a plastic bag. The turkey and
brine should be kept at a temperature of about 40F (4C). The best place
to brine your turkey would be in the refrigerator, but if there isn't
room there, freeze some water in several plastic sandwich bags and add
them to the container.

Note: If you buy a kosher turkey you can skip this step since the
koshering process includes brining.

For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg):
4 cups (1 L) kosher salt or 2 cups (500 ml) table salt
2 gallons (8 L) cold water

For turkeys over 15 pounds (7 Kg):
6 cups (1.5 L) kosher salt or 3 cups (750 ml) table salt
3 gallons (12 L) cold water

Dissolve the salt in the water in a large pot or bucket. Place the
turkey in a container large enough to hold it along with the brine and
pour the brine over it, making sure the brine completely fills the
cavities. If necessary, place a plate with some weights on it on top of
the turkey to keep it submerged. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours for
smaller turkeys, or up to 12 hours for larger birds. Remove from the
brine (discard the brine) and rinse the turkey inside and out. Dry
thoroughly inside and out with paper towels.

Step 2 - Air-Drying

You have just spent several hours adding moisture to your turkey, so why
do you want to air-dry it now? Because the brine has had the same effect
on the skin as it has had on the meat, and if you want a crispy, golden
brown skin you need to remove some of the moisture you have added to it.
Place the turkey on a wire rack and refrigerate uncovered for at least 8
hours or up to 24 hours.

Step 3 - Cooking

I have here three popular methods of cooking your now perfectly prepared
turkey. Oven roasting is the most common method, and has the added
benefit of producing wonderful pan drippings for making gravy. Hot
smoking (my preferred method of cooking turkey) requires an outdoor
covered grill, and deep frying can require a considerable investment in
equipment, but it is a method that is rapidly gaining in popularity so I
have included it here. Larger turkeys require lower cooking temperatures
to ensure the meat is done without burning the skin, and I have included
a separate recipe for oven roasting larger turkeys to take this into
account. Regardless of the method you choose, be sure your turkey is at
room temperature before cooking it.

To Stuff or Not to Stuff

Regardless of the method of cooking you choose, I recommend cooking your
turkey without stuffing. Stuffing should be cooked to at least 160F
(71C) in order to be safe, and to accomplish this requires that the
breast meat be cooked until it is dry and flavorless. If the perfect
turkey is your goal, cook the dressing separately.

The following is James Beard's method for roasting turkey, and although
it seems fussy, it is the only method I know of for browning the skin on
all sides and cooking the breast and thighs to different internal temperatures.

Oven Roasted Turkey
For turkeys up to 15 pounds (7 Kg)

2 - 3 medium onions, coarsely chopped
2 - 3 medium carrots, coarsely chopped
2 - 3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
3 - 4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1 whole turkey, brined and air-dried

Toss one-third of the chopped vegetables and thyme with 1 tablespoon (15
ml) of the butter and place in the body cavity of the turkey. Tie the
legs together with a piece of kitchen twine. Place the remaining
vegetables and thyme in a large roasting pan and add 1 cup (250 ml)
water. Place a V-rack in the pan. Brush the breast side of the turkey
with melted butter and place the turkey breast side down in the V-rack.
Baste the bottom of the turkey with the remaining butter.

Roast uncovered in a preheated 400F (200C) for 45 minutes. Remove from
the oven and baste with the juices from the pan. Using large wads of
paper towels to protect your hands, turn the turkey on its side and
roast an additional 15 minutes. Add more water to the pan if it becomes
dry. Remove the turkey, baste it, and turn it on its other side. Roast
for 15 minutes, then remove the turkey from the oven one more time,
baste it, and place it breast side up on the V-rack. Roast until the
breast registers 165F (74C) and the thigh registers 175 (80C) on an
instant-read thermometer, 30 to 45 minutes.
Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.

Oven Roasted Turkey
For turkeys over 15 pounds (7 Kg)

3 - 4 medium onions, coarsely chopped
3 - 4 medium carrots, coarsely chopped
3 - 4 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
4 - 6 sprigs fresh thyme
4 Tbs (60 ml) butter, melted
1 whole turkey, brined and air-dried

Toss one-third of the chopped vegetables and thyme with 1 tablespoon (15
ml) of the butter and place in the body cavity of the turkey. Tie the
legs together with a piece of kitchen twine. Place the remaining
vegetables and thyme in a large roasting pan and add 1 cup (250 ml)
water. Place a V-rack in the pan. Brush the breast side of the turkey
with melted butter and place the turkey breast side down in the V-rack.
Baste the bottom of the turkey with the remaining butter. Roast
uncovered in a preheated 250F (120C) for 3 hours, basting every hour
with the pan juices. Add more water to the pan if it becomes dry. Remove
from the oven and, using large wads of paper towels to protect your
hands, turn the turkey breast side up on the V-rack. Roast 1 hour,
basting occasionally. Turn the oven temperature up to 400F (200C) and
roast until the breast registers 165F (74C) and the thigh registers 175
(80C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 1 hour.
Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.

The following method is the one I have used for over 20 years. It
produces a bird that is a rich, deep mahogany color, and meat that is
flavored almost to the bone.

The Chef's Own Smoked Turkey

1 turkey, brined and air-dried
2 Tbs (30 ml) vegetable oil
1 large onion, cut into quarters
2 oranges, cut into quarters
2 - 4 sprigs fresh herbs such as rosemary or thyme
Hickory chips soaked in water for smoking

Rub the turkey with the oil and place the onion, oranges, and herbs in
the body cavity. Cook in a covered charcoal grill by the indirect
method, with the hot coals pushed to the sides of the grill (I use a
well known spherical brand) and with a drip pan directly under the
turkey, adding a handful of wood chips and additional charcoal every 45
to 60 minutes. Cook to an internal temperature of 175F (80C) in the
thickest part of the thigh, from 2 1/2 to 4 hours, depending on the
temperature in the grill and the size of the turkey. (I prefer to cook
at a lower temperature, about 300F (150C), giving the bird more time to
absorb the smoke.) The turkey should be a rich, dark mahogany color when done.
Remove from the grill and allow to rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving.

Deep-frying turkeys is a Cajun tradition that has been gaining in
popularity in recent years. You will need a 10-gallon (40 L) pot, a
propane burner, and a tripod for the pot. The only practical place to do
this is outdoors, and once the flame is ignited it should never be left
unattended. Please be sure that no children or pets are allowed near the pot at any time.

Deep-Fried Turkey

5 gal (20 L) peanut oil
1 turkey (up to 15 lbs, 7 Kg), brined and air-dried

Heat the oil in a 10-gallon (40 L) pot over a propane burner until it
reaches 375F (190C). Carefully lower the turkey into the oil (this is a
two-person job) and slowly raise and lower the turkey in the oil a few
times until it sinks to the bottom of the pot. Adjust the flame to
maintain the oil at 325F (160C) and cook for 4 minutes per pound - a
15-pound (7 Kg) turkey should cook in 1 hour. Carefully lift from the
oil and drain on several layers of paper towels or brown paper bags.
Allow to rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes before carving.

In the United States, hams that are heavily salted and air-cured are
known variously as country, Virginia, Kentucky, or Tennessee hams, and
Smithfield is probably the best known brand. The procedure for cooking
them is time consuming but not laborious, and the result may be the best
ham you have ever tasted.

Baked Country Ham

1 country ham, 12 - 15 lbs (5 - 7 Kg)
2 cups (500 ml) each coarsely chopped onions, carrots, and celery
2 Tbs (30 ml) whole black peppercorns
2 Tbs (30 ml) cider vinegar
1 Tbs (15 ml) allspice berries
4 cloves
1 cup (250 ml) orange marmalade
2 Tbs (30 ml) Dijon-style mustard

Scrub the ham with a brush under running water and then soak it in
enough cold water to cover for 24 hours. Hint: If the ham is too big to
fit in your biggest pot, saw off the shank and reserve it for future
use. Drain the ham and place in a large pot with the chopped vegetables,
peppercorns, vinegar, allspice, and cloves. Add enough water to cover
the ham and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer
covered for 2 hours. Remove from the heat and allow the ham to cool in
the cooking liquid for 2 to 4 hours. Drain the ham and discard the
liquid and seasonings. Remove and discard the skin of the ham, and score
the fatty layer in a diamond pattern. Place in a large roasting pan.
Combine the marmalade and mustard in a small saucepan and heat just
enough to thin the preserves, mixing well. Spoon the marmalade mixture
over the ham and bake in a preheated 400F (200C) oven for about 30
minutes, until the outer layer is crisp and brown. Remove from the oven
and allow to rest for 30 minutes before serving with an assortment of mustards.
Serves 15 to 20.
Received on Wed Nov 19 19:32:15 2008