A New England Classics Menu

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             FOOD FUNNY
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Thanks again to Rosemary Zwick for this one:

My husband works in a former supermarket that was remodeled to
accommodate professional offices. One day he overheard his receptionist
giving directions over the phone. "Remember the old grocery store?" she
asked the caller. "Well, you'll find us in the meat department."

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             TODAY'S RECIPES
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This classic New England appetizer might owe its origins to the many
Portuguese fishermen and their families who made the area their home in
the 18th and 19th centuries.

Sardine Stuffed Deviled Eggs

12 large hard-cooked eggs, shells removed
2-4 oz (100 g) cans of sardines, thoroughly drained
1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise
4 Tbs (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
4 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp (2 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
1 tsp (5 ml) salt, or to taste
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh chives
12 to 24 capers

With a small sharp knife cut a 1/8 inch (1 mm) slice off the bottom of
the eggs so they will stand up. Then slice off the top 1/3 of each egg,
and chop the scraps of egg white finely and set them aside. Gently
squeeze the yolks out of the eggs, being careful not to break the white
cases. Mash the yolks and the sardines together with a fork, then beat
the mayonnaise into the egg-sardine mixture. Add the lemon juice,
mustard, cayenne and salt, mixing thoroughly. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Spoon the filling into the egg white cases, dividing it
evenly among them and mounding it on top. Mix the reserved chopped
whites together with the parsley and chives in a shallow bowl, and dip
the filled eggs into the mixture, rolling to coat the tops thoroughly.
Place a caper or two on the top of each egg. Stand the eggs on a chilled
platter and serve at once, or cover the platter loosely with waxed paper
and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Makes 12 eggs.

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Today's "New England Classics" soup is a favorite of mine; I even like
some of the canned preparations. Nothing beats the homemade version
though, even if you can't get fresh clams. New Englanders swear that the
soup tastes better if allowed to sit at room temperature for a couple of
hours before serving, or overnight in the refrigerator.

New England Clam Chowder
3 dozen hard shell clams, shucked, with their juices reserved (about 3 cups, 750 ml) or 2 cups (500 ml) canned chopped clams
2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm) dice (about 2 cups, 500 ml)
2 oz (50 g) salt pork or bacon, cut into 1/4 inch (5 mm) dice
1 cup (250 ml) finely chopped onions
2 cups (500 ml) milk
1/2 (125 ml) cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 tsp (20 ml) butter (optional)

If using fresh clams separate the soft part of the clams (stomach) from
the hard part surrounding it. Finely chop the hard part and set aside,
and slice each soft part in two and reserve separately. Strain the clam
liquor through two layers of cheesecloth and set aside. If using canned
clams, drain the clams in a fine sieve over a bowl and reserve the
liquid. In a large soup pot saute the salt pork over low heat until
crisp and they have rendered all their fat. Remove and reserve. Add the
onions to the fat remaining in the pot and cook over moderate heat for
about 5 minutes, until they are translucent but not brown. Stir in the
reserved clam liquor, the finely chopped fresh clams (do not add canned
clams at this point), the milk, and the potatoes. Cover and simmer 10 to
15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Stir in the reserved soft
parts of the clams (or the canned clams), the reserved salt pork or
bacon, and the cream, and simmer for an additional 3 minutes. Adjust the
seasoning with salt and pepper. Allow to rest off heat for one to two
hours, then reheat immediately before serving. Ladle into warm bowls,
and place a teaspoon (5 ml) of butter on top of each serving (optional, but very traditional).
Serves 4.

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My overseas readers may not fully appreciate how much of a national icon
Boston Baked Beans are here in the USA. Every American has eaten them
hundreds of times, and many of us think this is the only way to cook
beans. I believe this recipe is doable almost anywhere in the world,
even if Great Northern or navy beans are not available in your neck of
the woods. Virtually any small, dried bean will do. Make up a batch of
these and keep them on hand, in the refrigerator, to be reheated
whenever you need a last-minute side dish. They are even good cold, and
I know people who love them as a sandwich, between two slices of buttered bread.

Boston Baked Beans

2 to 3 quarts (2-3 L) water
2 lbs (900 g) dried Great Northern, navy, or other small dried bean
1 large onion, peeled
2 large onions, peeled and each studded with 2 whole cloves
1 tsp (5 ml) plus 1 Tbs (15 ml) salt
3/4 cups (180 ml) dark molasses
3/4 cup (180 ml) dark brown sugar
1 Tbs (15 ml) dry mustard
1 tsp (5 ml) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb (225 g) salt pork in one piece, with rind left on

Bring 2 quarts (2 L) water to a boil in a large pan over high heat. Add
the beans and boil for 2 minutes. Water should cover the beans by at
least 2 inches (5 cm); add more if necessary. Turn off the heat and let
the beans soak for 1 hour. Add the peeled onion and 1 teaspoon (5 ml)
salt, and bring to a boil again. Reduce the heat to low and simmer
partially covered for 1 to 2 hours, until the beans are tender. The
water should always cover the beans. Add more water if necessary. Drain
the beans, reserving the liquid, and pick out and discard the onion. Add
more water to the cooking liquid, if necessary, to make 2 quarts (2 L).
In a deep bowl mix the molasses, 1/2 cup ( 125 ml) of the brown sugar,
the mustard, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) salt, and pepper, the beans and the
reserved cooking liquid and stir gently to thoroughly combine all the
ingredients. Place the clove studded onions in the bottom of a 4 to 5
quart (4-5 L) oven-proof baking dish and pour the bean mixture over
them. Score the salt pork by cutting diagonal, crisscrossing slits about
1/2 inch (1 cm) deep through the fatty side. Push the salt pork into the
beans. Cover the pot tightly and bake in the middle of a 200F (90C) oven
for 7 hours. Then remove the lid and sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup (60
ml) brown sugar evenly over the top and bake uncovered for an additional hour.
Makes about 3 quarts (3 L).

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Early New Englanders brought this dish from Ireland, where boiled beef,
cabbage, and potatoes appear in numerous incarnations. I'm only guessing
at that, but I know from intimate personal experience that this meal is
as satisfying to body and soul as any dish on earth, especially if there
is a bit of a chill in the night air.

New England Boiled Dinner

1-4 to 5 lb (approx. 2 kg) corned beef
10 to 12 medium-sized beets, peeled
3 to 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into large pieces
6 to 8 large carrots, scrubbed and cut into large pieces
3 to 4 turnips, peeled and quartered
10 to 15 small onions, peeled
6 to 8 medium-sized potatoes, scrubbed and quartered
1 head cabbage, cut into wedges
Dijon mustard and prepared horseradish as condiments.

Place the corned beef along with the pickling liquid and spices in a
large pot and add enough water to cover it. Simmer for about one hour
per pound, adding water as necessary to keep the beef covered. Remove
from the liquid, leaving the liquid in the pot, and place in a shallow
baking dish or other container. Place a cutting board or other baking
dish on top, and place several heavy weights (cans of food, cast iron
cookware, etc) on top to compress it. Boil the beets in a separate pot
for 30 to 45 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile add the parsnips, carrots,
turnips, and onions to the beef cooking liquid and simmer for 30
minutes. Add the potatoes and simmer for an additional 15 minutes, then
add the cabbage wedges and simmer 15 minutes more. Slice the beef and
arrange with the vegetables on a large, deep platter, along with a
generous amount of the cooking liquid. Serve mustard and horseradish on the side.
Serves 8 to 12.

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The truth is I don't have much of a sweet tooth. I will usually opt for
more of the main course and skip dessert. My taste runs in that
direction, and I'm sure my waistline is grateful. However, this is one
dessert that I will always leave room for. This is also one of those
"why do people park on driveways, and drive on parkways?" sort of
things; why is this cake called a pie?

Boston Cream Pie

For the cake:
2 tsp (10 ml) plus 6 Tbs (90 ml) butter, softened
2 Tbs (30 ml) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) cake flour (not self-rising)
2 tsp (10 ml) double-acting baking powder
1/4 tsp (1 ml) salt
3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
1/2 cup milk

For the custard filling:
1/2 (125 ml) cup light cream
1/2 cup (125 ml) milk
1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar
A pinch of salt
4 tsp (20 ml) cornstarch (cornflour)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract

For the chocolate frosting:
3 one-ounce (28 g) squares semi-sweet chocolate, cut into small bits
2 Tbs (30 ml) butter
1/4 cup (60 ml) light cream
1/2 cup (125 ml) powdered sugar (confectioner's sugar), sifted
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract

Butter and flour the insides of two 9 inch (25 cm) round cake pans.
Combine the cake flour, the baking powder, and the salt, and sift them
onto a piece of waxed paper or a plate. In a deep bowl cream the 6
tablespoons of butter together with the sugar, beating them until the
mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the two eggs, one at a time, and
the vanilla. Beat in 1/3 of the flour mixture until it is thoroughly
incorporated, add 1/3 of the milk, and beat until the batter is smooth.
Repeat two more times. Divide the batter between the two prepared cake
pans and bake in the center of a preheated 375F (190C) oven for about 15
minutes, or until the cake begins to shrink away from the sides of the
pan and the center springs back immediately when poked with a finger.
Turn the cakes onto wire racks to cool.
   For the filling, combine the cream and half the milk in a saucepan
and bring almost to a boil over moderate heat. When bubbles begin to
form around the edge of the pan add the sugar and salt and stir until
they are dissolved. Remove the pan from heat. Combine the remaining milk
and the cornstarch in a bowl and stir to remove lumps. Whisk the two
eggs into this mixture, and then add the cream mixture in a thin stream,
whisking constantly. Return the contents of the bowl to the saucepan and
cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and
is smooth. Remove from heat; over cooking will make it lumpy. Stir in
the vanilla extract and allow to cool to room temperature.
   For the frosting, stir the chocolate bits and the butter in a heavy
saucepan over low heat until they are completely melted. Remove from the
heat and, stirring constantly, add the cream in a thin stream. When this
mixture is smooth sift the powdered sugar over the top, and beat
vigorously for a minute or two. Stir in the vanilla extract.
   To assemble the cake, spread the filling over one of the cakes with a
metal spatula, and place the second cake on top. Pour the frosting
evenly over the top, allowing it to spill over the sides.
One cake serves 6 to 8.
Received on Tue Jan 8 19:20:28 2008